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Avatar
FredrikH
From: Råå, Sweden
Posts: 62
This wire will fit in the modules holes, see that now :)
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ah3ROr-SBUwzhbwTWqJnCkZAg8L3SQ

Stephan, I think needing just 10 cm not 30 or 40 cm ;)
[Last edited by FredrikH, 2017-09-19 20:41]
____________________________________________
Computer: Windows 10, 64-bit, Intel i7 8700k, Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, 16GB RAM and Asus GTX1080

Game control: Razer Nostromo, Keyboard, Saitek Pro Flight X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.
2017-09-19 20:05
Avatar
StephanHo
From: EDDG, Germany
Posts: 1867
Supporter
10 cm are ok. The shorter the better ;)
Grüße,
Stephan (Time: UTC+2)
2017-09-19 20:43
Avatar
FredrikH
From: Råå, Sweden
Posts: 62
I think I will just use the original 4 and hide the diggits I do not need, much easier :rolleyes:

When all is done I will post a picture :)
____________________________________________
Computer: Windows 10, 64-bit, Intel i7 8700k, Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, 16GB RAM and Asus GTX1080

Game control: Razer Nostromo, Keyboard, Saitek Pro Flight X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.
2017-09-19 21:04
Avatar
pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 6010
Supporter
Hi

Here Stephan missunderstood your question i think !!!

The Wire itself can be thik or thin ... Whatever. The Power limit is no Problem here.

What you mean is the conection into the Empty sockets after you remove the 4x1 Display.... Right ?

This is a little Problem cause this sockets are "precision" ..... Just Google for that... PinHeaders are sold in 2 versions... "Standard" or "Precision" The Precision you need here are much thinner like the standard ones.

Solution....
You can Buy "Precision Pin Headers" to build a connector if needed.... Solder your wires to the Upper Side of the Pinheader and connect the lower (precision) side into the empty sockets.

Myself i still work with "trash" ;) .... The Contacts of a Diode, LED or a resistor are nearly this size you need.... If you build something and use a LED for example normaly you cut off most of the ~4cm Shafts after solder it..... Here i simply collect this Cutoffs parts in a box.....
Now if i need to set a 7 Segement i solder this small Parts simply on the cable and set it in the sockets ( With a additional drop of thin to fix it forever.

If you work with Crimp contacts (Dupont) the same problem exist... The Male Connectors are to thick.... But again here you can solder a piece like above on the male-contact to like a adapter !.

Last alternate.... look for Silverwire ... This is much harder like normal wires and not drilled.... basicly it´s the same like the cut pieces of a diode. BUT i never order it so i not know the needed thickness to make them compatible with the Precision Sockets on the MAx modules!

****
Finaly About the 30cm

Power from Max Module to LED Segments is verry low.... Lots of people report problems in long systems like 50cm or 100cm. i think 30cm should work ok.... But i not try out completly.... maby Limit is already 25 cm Maby 40cm still work fine, too..... This was just estimated. Simply avoid too long wireing if possible !

Have fun with your Displays.... If possible show us your project with a Photo when finished!
Good Luck !
2017-09-19 23:47
Avatar
FredrikH
From: Råå, Sweden
Posts: 62
Hi pizman82

You are correct :)

Another question:

I like showing the Flaps poss... in a led-segment instead of a gauge, it cannot be so hard, it is?

Best Fredrik
____________________________________________
Computer: Windows 10, 64-bit, Intel i7 8700k, Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, 16GB RAM and Asus GTX1080

Game control: Razer Nostromo, Keyboard, Saitek Pro Flight X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.
2017-09-22 16:05
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StephanHo
From: EDDG, Germany
Posts: 1867
Supporter
Do you mean a row of LED or a double 7-segment-display?
Grüße,
Stephan (Time: UTC+2)
2017-09-22 16:48
Avatar
pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 6010
Supporter
EDIT: Double Post again .... Stephan Realy funny :thumbup: :lol: We should make a time plan to prevent this !

Thats no problem basicly.....
There are existing lots of technics to build this already !

1. Fact... You have to know WHAT Aircraft and Simulator you use....
How many Flaps Positions does it have ? AND If it´s a AddOn... How do it support the Data ( Standard Offset, own Offset ???)
If you like to build a Multipanel for different aircrafts then a Display is maby better then a gauge based system.

2. Fact... You need to decide for a Technic.
I see a system that is build like a gauge.... But not with a motor needle.... It have simple LED´s on the 1,2,5,10,15.... Points. Even what position is reached the specific LED is light Up.
Another system is simply using a 7 Segment 2 Diggit Display that is showing 0,1,5,....40 . Maby this is what you looking for,

Finaly you have to make a config for this ( ore multiple Configs is you like to use LED´s) .
Here some IF Functions are needed.... some Compares .... Or a interpolation. Even what technic you choice above.

If you like you can find out with testing yourself..... If not please tell me exact what aircraft and what system.... Then i can guide you if possible,

Last Note.... Not be scarred about the Motor Needle Gauges.... At beginning i thought about a Alternate, too cause i not know how to use the Motors.... But this is pretty easy !
So if you Need a Display/LED System cause of other reasons then build it.... If you only be scarred from using a motor.... Then Try out.. This workes fine and can be done without big skills!
Good Luck !
2017-09-22 17:03
Avatar
FredrikH
From: Råå, Sweden
Posts: 62
I mean showing the poss in the led-segment like in MAX7219 module! :)

:w00t: missed your answered in this :lol:

I am going for the normally led-Segment I think :)
____________________________________________
Computer: Windows 10, 64-bit, Intel i7 8700k, Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, 16GB RAM and Asus GTX1080

Game control: Razer Nostromo, Keyboard, Saitek Pro Flight X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.
2017-09-22 17:04
Avatar
StephanHo
From: EDDG, Germany
Posts: 1867
Supporter
Hi Fredrik,

it's right simple to show the flaps position with a MAX7219-Module.
You need a double (for the integer value of the flap-position) or a triple 7-segment-display of a MAX7219 Module (if you want to see also the in between steps).

Plug the display like the other ones. You can use i.e. the rest of an eight-digit-module or a quad-7-segment-display.
Define how many digits you want to display and use the offset 0x6568 (float 4 Bytes) if you use a PMDG B737 in your config. If you want to show the decimal parts behind the comma, use three digits, without only tho. With three digits use the transform with $*10 otherwise let it as it is.
If you now move the flaps you can read the flap-position in digital numbers from 0 to 40. If you use 3 digits with transform you will see 0.0 to 40.0

Please note: with two digits you will only see the integer-number (1,2,3,,,39,40) and the display will only change when reaching the next integer-value.

That's it. Please report, if it works with you
[Last edited by StephanHo, 2017-09-23 17:27]
Grüße,
Stephan (Time: UTC+2)
2017-09-23 17:22
Avatar
pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 6010
Supporter
Additional Note....

I think it´s maby not usefull to work with the value directly..... Then From Flaps 10-15 for example the Display is working like stephan said.... It increas 10-11-12-13-14-15 OR with 3 Diggit technic it increase from 10.0 over 10.1 until 14.9 15.0. Thats maby a bit confusing optical. Myself it would prefer a Display that shows only FULL Dentents !


Os it´s also possible to make the Display showing only full Detents.... If you go for example from 10-15 it will show 10 until the hole transit and simply chage to 15 if the 15 position is reached finaly ! Same reverse..... From 15 to 10 it stay in 15 until 10 is reached.


If you prefer THIS then we need to try the interpolation Tab OR have to work with some If Functions !

Simply tell us exactly HOW it should work.... Then we find a solution for you !... Or Try yourself.... Thats the best way !
Good Luck !
2017-09-24 02:51
Avatar
FredrikH
From: Råå, Sweden
Posts: 62
iconpizman82:


The Connection can be done with Dupont Crimp Connectors if you not like to solder and the Displays can be wire up to 30cm away from the Max7219 Tube.... So you not have to mount the tube behind the Display in Panel.... You can set it somewhere internal where you got space and only use the Diggits itself in the Panel !



When we wrote earlier you was talking about "Dupont Crimp Connectors" What sorts can I use for my http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-digit-LED-display-module-MAX7219-digital-control-tube-red-matrix-fr-Arduino-XV/222557035163?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
____________________________________________
Computer: Windows 10, 64-bit, Intel i7 8700k, Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, 16GB RAM and Asus GTX1080

Game control: Razer Nostromo, Keyboard, Saitek Pro Flight X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.
2017-10-08 16:41
Avatar
pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 6010
Supporter
HI.
As i said in a eralyer posting......
The Dupont Crimp Connectors have the same "problem" like other Pin headers..... They NOT "precission" .
So i work for example with this ones....
http://www.avc-shop.de/epages/64272905.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64272905/Products/DUPCP-M

When you explore this shop you see in lower page links to the "housings". there exist houses from 1-20 (or more) Pins.
This are normed in 2.54 mm like our used hardware and you can use MALE and FEMALE Dupont Crimps for this.

( I know this is a german shop..... But you can see the basics and search for it in your country.)


So you have to find out what you need.... I think maby a solder (Without Crimp Contacts) on the Max7219 Tube side is the best way.

I personaly use the Crimp contacts more on other spots like the connectors on Arduino... Or if i like a removeable Display Block.
There i solder the Display itself on a selfmade PCB and this got a PinHeader as Coneccting point. THERE i build a for example 13pin Housing with 13 FEMALE Crimp Connectors to cable it to the Max7219..... On the Max Side i simply solder the wires into the module. .... Then i can simply remave the hole cable direct on the Display PCB.
Good Luck !
2017-10-09 07:22
Avatar
ec-cts
From: Pozuelo de Alarcon, Spain
Posts: 79
iconCode:
But i think you realy like a Input ( For example a 2 Position Switch) .... In Upper Position you like to Display Com1.... In Down Position you like Com2 on the Display....

HERE we get a little Problem cause Mobiflight NOT allow us to use a Real Switch Position for a Precondition ! As i told a Precondition needs always a Output Config from a OFFSET.
BUT We can use a trick..... We can work with a Custom Offset ! ( Custom Offsets are for example 66C0 - 66FF
A Custom Offset is a free FSUIPC offset that is not controlled by simulator itself....
In Easy Words...
You create a Input Config for the Switch that write our Custom Offsrt for example to 0 or 1 even witch postition the switch is.
Then you create a output Config ( No Device) and readout THIS Custom Offset. ( Cause we need a output Config for our Precondition)
Finaly you create 2 Output Configs for the Display ( one for Com1 and another for Com2)
To this 2 configs you set each a procondition.... Com1 only work if Custom Offset Readout Config =0 .... Com2 only work if the custom Offset = 1

NOW you can toggle your switch and set with this switch the custom offset to 1 or 0..... And the Display show Com1 or Com2 in case what value the Custom offset got at the moment !

I Hope you understand.....

PS
Short overview to your question with a bigger number of used functions....
With this technic you can for example use a 12 Position Rotary Switch instead of the 2 Position switch.... So you can theoretic show 12 different things on one Display.... Simple use now Custom Offset Values not only 0 and 1 use 0-11 now.

You can do this with a Button too.... Simply make a logic that the Button should increase the Offset Value +1 .... So it start on 0 every push add +1 to the Vallue...... Extremly you be able to set 1000 Functions to a Display with only one button !

Please try out.... If you check the basic technic the rest is pretty simple !


Hello Pizman82:

I have seen your description of how to use a precondition like what you have expressed. I need that solution to advance on my radio panel.

I've tried it but I do not understand for the difference in language and I can not do it.

There is some small example made with MB Connector, that I can see how to do what I have highlighted. (Would be worth with screenshots or video).


Thanks

Carlos (ec-cts)
[Last edited by ec-cts, 2017-10-09 13:22]
2017-10-09 13:17
Avatar
ec-cts
From: Pozuelo de Alarcon, Spain
Posts: 79
Hi Friends:

You do not need to answer me, I already found a thread with a small but very expressive and clear tutorial:
https://www.mobiflight.com/forum/topic/652.html

Thanks

Carlos (ec-cts)
2017-10-09 13:50
Avatar
FredrikH
From: Råå, Sweden
Posts: 62
iconpizman82:

HI.
As i said in a eralyer posting......
The Dupont Crimp Connectors have the same "problem" like other Pin headers..... They NOT "precission" .
So i work for example with this ones....
http://www.avc-shop.de/epages/64272905.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64272905/Products/DUPCP-M

When you explore this shop you see in lower page links to the "housings". there exist houses from 1-20 (or more) Pins.
This are normed in 2.54 mm like our used hardware and you can use MALE and FEMALE Dupont Crimps for this.

( I know this is a german shop..... But you can see the basics and search for it in your country.)

So you have to find out what you need.... I think maby a solder (Without Crimp Contacts) on the Max7219 Tube side is the best way.



I remembered that you have wrote it earlier ;)

I have a clue boughting this: http://www.avc-shop.de/epages/64272905.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/64272905/Products/DUPCP-M and simply solder the Dupont Crimpkontakt at the pin of the led-segment. It is hard soldering the cable directly at the pin!

I think that is my way to go :)

Alternative is to use: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=202

I have bought it and tested it 5 minutes ago and it fits perfectly :) Wondering if you know the dimension of: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=202 ?

Better and faster using these kind of products instead of solder 194 pins ;)

I also have a way to attach the led-segment at the panel :)
[Last edited by FredrikH, 2017-10-11 22:45]
____________________________________________
Computer: Windows 10, 64-bit, Intel i7 8700k, Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING, 16GB RAM and Asus GTX1080

Game control: Razer Nostromo, Keyboard, Saitek Pro Flight X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S.
2017-10-11 10:22
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