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mbuto
Posts: 38
Hi,

Up until now, I've only needed to breadboard things while I learn MF. So connections into the Mega are with generic jumper wires. What's the recommended way to wire them into a production cockpit so they won't come loose?

Thanks!
2020-09-23 09:09
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pizman82
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From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 3867
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Like in all other electronic devices...... Solder is the best and perfect way.
BUT
You should think about the ability to remove broken parts. So for example the Mega itself can get broke, too.... So it is not good to solder the Wires directly into the Mega !
Here a good compromise is to solder the wires to a Pin-bridge like this .... https://www.pololu.com/product/965 One side is solder.... the other is a connector.


Most users work with shields ( more expensive... more easy) This combine the perfect connection of soldering and also allow a simple disconnection if needed.

For example THIS.... https://www.banggood.com/Double-side-PCB-Prototype-Screw-Terminal-Block-Shield-Board-Kit-Mega2560-R3-p-1111664.html?cur_warehouse=UK
So you got solder wires ( or screwconncetors in that example) that are 100% perfect.... But you can simply pulloff this element from the mega to change it if needed.

Same for the Devices..... A Button or a LED should be solder to the wire..... But this wire should not be solder directly to the Mega or shield..... It´s more profitable to have a conncetor somewhere between. So if the LED e.g. is broke you remove the wire from the connction point and you can remove the LED itself from the panel without deconctruct other things.
Good example is a Display.... You should solder them pretty sure.... But i would NOT solder the Display pins itself.... I would solder a little PCB Breadboard and put Female Pinheaders on it like this .... https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/91844/round-female-pin-header-vs-square-female-pin-header
So the headers are solder to the PCB.... The Wires are solder to that PCB, too.... But the Display itself is just plugged in and can be romeved within seconds.

**************
Summary: Find a compromise between a perfect electrical connection ( solder) and the ability to remove every part in short time and with less work as possible.
Good Luck !
2020-09-23 12:45
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mbuto
Posts: 38
Excellent! Thank you!
2020-09-24 20:45
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mbuto
Posts: 38
Is there a photo around of how to connect the Mega & shield? I received some today, but I'm not sure how to mate the them together.
2020-10-15 03:11
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pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 3867
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I don´t know WHAT shield you buy.... So we need i link.

Most shields are self explaned.... They need Pins on the backside ( simple Pins for example like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32852136842.html
System is simple.... You need the same number of pins and on the position that it fit completly into the Mega Pins.

On Top there are large difference between the shields.... Some work simply with solder holes and nothing additional is needed. Others have screw based Connectors like in the link i send you in last posting. Some are build with Male flat wire connectors

Normaly you should understand this yourself if you take a look to the shield. If not send me a picture or link then i can explane it
Good Luck !
2020-10-15 12:22
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mbuto
Posts: 38
So on the front printed side I would put the green terminal blocks and solder them on the back side. Those would then be wired to the appropriate switch/display/encoder/etc. Correct?

Do you recommend to solder all of them, or just the ones needed?

Next you would insert the black connector blocks from the front side and solder all 84(?) pins on the back side. Then you plug the Mega in to the exposed pins on the back side.

Is this correct?

My shield came with a surface mount reset button. Do you recommend that I solder it to the shield?

BTW, there are bunch of other holes on the shield. Is there any purpose to them?
2020-10-15 22:15
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pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 3867
Supporter
Why do you think so much ?..... Lay the empty Board on your Mega.... then you see what pins must be connected to the Mega and what Pins are used for the terminal Blocks.

Or simply google.... "Arduino Mega shield terminal" .... First Hit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb0aASFMn_w

About the Button..... Simple question. Do you need it ?
If the Arduino is fit to the shield you can no longer reach the original reset Button. But if you set the Mega finaly inside of your Overhead/MCP or so then you will also not be able to touch it. Inverted if you use the Mega on your table for testing or so then the button make sense.

Finaly the inner Holes.... This is like a breadboard.
The Mega Pins are lined by the PCB from the Holes you connect the Mega to the corespondending hole that is "normaly" used by the terminal Blocks. Means this hole get in cantact to the Mega pin via PCB Line !

If you need for example a LED with a resistor then it make sense to NOT solder the terminal block directly in that holes..... You can also set it in the middle..... Finaly the connection between the Terminal hole and the original hole will be done with the resistor. So you not need to solder it directly on the LED.

A other good system is to combine 5v or GRD lines..... For example you make a wire from a GRD Pin ( instead of a terninal block) and wire it to the middle. There you use e.g. a 8x1 Terminal and you solder all 8 Pins together to one line with the GRD wire..... Result.... Now you got 8 individual Terminals for GRD.
Good Luck !
2020-10-16 06:19
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mbuto
Posts: 38
Why think so much? Simple - if I make a mistake, it's 2 months to get replacement parts from China! Some things from Amazon were 3 months! Aliexpress was usually 1-2 months. Some parts like 6 digit displays take even longer. (standard 8 digit max7219 not allowed)

Never would have thought about items you mentioned until it may have been too late!

I understand about making common ground lines, but what is '8x1 Terminal'?
2020-10-16 10:00
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StephanHo
Moderator
From: EDDG, Germany
Posts: 1577
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Hi mbuto,

why do you order at shops with so long delivery times?

I also ordered in china but waited not more than 12 days (for germany).
Try this shop: https://www.ebay.com/str/SenseCore?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Grüße,
Stephan
2020-10-16 14:43
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pizman82
Moderator
From: ETSI, Germany
Posts: 3867
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I not remember where Mbuto come from..... But maybe china imports are problematic in his country. For example customcontroll law facts that make it difficult to order in china!

@mbuto.... Your right. I´m also ask one question more as needed and not like to waste a part in case of a misstake. I just wondering cause those Shields are realy basic.
Whatever if i think 20 minutes about.... i find no idea what misstake can be done. Only 2 kinds of parts ( conectors and pin bridges) ..... Only 2 types of holes.... Arduino can be placed only on one part of the holes and on arduino area only the pinbridges make sense. So i would say there is absolutly no way to make a misstake here B)

About the GRD example. I not know the correct english terms. I mean the mostly green terminals you solder on the Pins and who got a screw to fit a cable.
In this example 8x1 means a terminal with 8 Pins. It´s no mater.... Also a 3Pin terminal will work. I just want to explane you can build custom things there.

See this area like a empty board ( like this https://paradisetronic.com/media/images/org/Lochrasterplatine4x6_2.jpg
With the advantage that the Arduino Pins are already available nearby and not must wired from a Mega to that empty board by the user!
Good Luck !
2020-10-17 09:10
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mbuto
Posts: 38
I'm in Vancouver, Canada. So I suspect the problem is that quantities to Canada are small. Even though YVR gets several direct flights from China every day, doesn't seem to matter. Lot's of things from Amazon.ca can be delivered same day, or 1-2 days. Less speedy is Amazon.com. But tiny hobby things - good luck. I've had lots of problems with Ebay so I avoid them if I can.
2020-10-18 01:06
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hrings
Posts: 78
Try the ready made board from Siam Electronics (ton Chatchai) chatchai_cmm@hotmail.com
They are easy to use
HenningR
2020-10-24 18:35
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